Otto notti in una mansarda a 1350 metri sul livello del mare, aria fresca sulla pelle, neve nei guanti, tre scosse di terremoto.
In poco più di una settimana ho imparato a mettere le catene al pandino, a usare e pulire la stufa a pellet (anche se non ho ancora capito cos’è), a distinguere composte e confetture, ad associarle a formaggi più o meno stagionati.
Ho ascoltato e condiviso parole, storie, esperienze, informazioni e paure davanti al camino, in una yurta, lungo la strada, in un container, in una casetta di legno, nel bosco innevato, sotto la luna piena, appoggiata al Cristo delle Nevi, in un camper, camminando, bevendo, brindando, facendo colazione, pranzo, cena, merenda, aperitivo, spuntini.
Ho acceso e preparato il fuoco. Una notte mi sono svegliata pensando che ogni tanto ci vorrebbe un po’ di diavolina anche per me, un aiuto per accendermi e riscaldare chi ho vicino. Ho cercato di trasmettere calore ad ogni ospite, in ogni incontro, per ogni saluto.
Ho fatto due docce senza acqua calda e indossato sempre due paia di calzini, alternando scarponi e doposci, tra pile caldi, calze di lana e magliette termiche. Ho asciugato i capelli con il calore del fuoco e fatto un pupazzo di neve con un’amica che non vedevo da tanto. Ho fotografato orme di volpi, lepri, caprioli, lupi.
Le piste di Frontignano, apparentemente vuote per la chiusura degli impianti di risalita, in realtà hanno ospitato delicate passeggiate, sci alpinismo, ciaspolate e slittini, a ricordare che una montagna può vivere con un turismo dolce e sostenibile, legato alla bellezza della natura, ai suoi silenzi, al rispetto delle timide creature che la abitano. E poi le fette biscottate artigianali con la marmellata al sambuco ogni mattina, la zuppa sibilla da tenere in ammollo e da desiderare per un giorno intero, le tisane di rosa canina.
Ricordarsi all’improvviso di correre fuori alle 16.40 per andare a vedere il rosa, l’arancio e il giallo illuminare Cima Vallinfante, il Porche, Palazzo Borghese, l’Argentella, Quarto San Lorenzo e il Redentore. Il saluto quotidiano al Bove.
La nebbia che sale e che mi trasforma in una nuvola.
Un lucernario sotto il quale addormentarmi con gli occhi al cielo, verso la luna. Un capodanno improvvisato su Facebook tra quasi-sconosciuti, il brindisi di mezzanotte per strada, ridendo e camminando come pinguini su inevitabili lastre di ghiaccio. E poi il silenzio, davanti all’hotel Ambassador, anche lui inagibile, sembra esploso da dentro.
Gli acquisti per gli amici di Bologna. Gli asini, i cavalli e i pony, compagni di ogni curva prudente salendo da Ussita. La strada per San Placido ancora chiusa. La legna da recuperare velocemente in zona rossa a Sorbo, tra le prime demolizioni e i ricordi di coloro a cui vuoi bene. Il cielo di due giorni fa non lo scorderò mai, spegnere i fari e starsene lì sotto per sempre.
Ciao Cornaccione, Bicco e Bove Nord, compagni perfetti per questo passaggio di anno.
Ci rivedremo presto, dovete ancora insegnarmi tante cose. Mentre vi salutavo mi sono accorta di non sapere ancora come si chiamano gli abitanti di Frontignano. E, come qualcuno mi ha detto stamattina, scorgendo il mio tentennare…
“Forza, sbrigati a partire. È il primo passo per avvicinare il momento del ritorno”.
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